Last Chance Animal Rescue Inc.
Frequently asked questions
General
Q...Where did my kitty come from?
A...Our organization rescues almost exclusively from 20 different shelters in five different states. MLast Chance Humane Feline Policyost of the shelters do not or are not allowed to release any personal information about the previous owners or their pets. They may have been a stray from a barn or a pampered house kitty whose owner has passed away. Often the kitties we rescue have been exposed to starvation, neglect and in some cases abuse. While we provide extensive medical care prior to adoption it's up to you to keep the ball rolling. Continued veterinary care is crucial to the continued well being of the kitty you have opened your home to.
Q...How old is my kitty?
A...The kittens/cats are aged when they arrive at our rescue. Their arrival date will be the initial "Deworming" date on your LCAR contract. To calculate their birthday you can count back the age on the contract as of the "deworm" date and determine their age from that date (confusing enough for ya'?, if you still can't figure it out you can contact your New Pet Parent Counselor)
Q...I lost/didn't get my kitties paperwork or my paperwork does not match my kitty.
A...If you know the file number that is on the top right corner of your contract, on the tab of your manila file or the collar (blue or pink) of your kitty when you adopted it, it is fairly easy to reproduce the paperwork by calling the office. We can fax it or snail mail it. If you do not have the number, it is harder and takes longer. An e mail to the new pet parent counselor at lastchancehumane@comcast.net is the best way to get that info. Please make sure you have as much info available as possible when requesting this info. i.e.: age, color, date and location of adoption.
Q...What food has my kitty been eating?
A...In our shelter your kitty was on a high quality diet of Hill's Science Diet Cat/Kitten food. Upon adoption you received a sample bag of the same food to take home with you. While in Petsmart they munch on Authority (another high quality food). Make sure you ask your vet at your first visit about the type of food they suggest and the best way to switch your kitty over (if he chooses) to make sure your pet doesn't get an upset tummy. We also encourage you to buy a case of high quality canned kitten food to make sure your kitty gets the vital nutrients and protein required to stay healthy (again...follow up with your vet if modifying your kitty's diet)
Medical
Q...When should my kitty go to the vet?
A...Your kitty needs to go to the vet within 3 days to set up a shot schedule, monitor their general health and resolve any unforeseen issues. You should have a fecal float done to check for resistant or residual parasites (your kitty has been dewormed once with a broad spectrum dewormer but it is not always a one time treatment). (Please refer to "First Vet Visit", "Feline Vet Policy" and "Wellness Clinic" buttons to the left of this screen for more info.)
Q...My kitty is sneezing, what should I do?
A...If your kitty has already been to the vet they may have been prescribed an antibiotic. If so please continue the medicines as per your vets instructions and continue to monitor your kitties food and water intake. If you see decrease in either contact your vet or Last Chance right away. Kitties need to eat and drink every day. **If you have not been to the vet...they may be having a reaction to the intranasal vaccines they received. There is no way to tell if they are having a reaction to the vaccine or if they are actually sick. The best way we have found to tell the difference is if there is nasal or occular (eyes) discharge. In which case we would err on the side of caution and consider them "sick" and you would need to have antibiotics prescribed by your vet. Get them in quickly...the faster you start treatment the quicker your kitty will start feeling their best!
Q...My kitty has diarrhea, what should I do?
A...There are several reasons your kitty may experience diarrhea (loose stool). The most common causes are change in diet and stress. However, the possibility of a medical reason should not be overlooked. Intestinal parasites and some viruses can cause diarrhea. Therefore, at your first vet visit, as mentioned earlier, a fecal float is critical to determine the actual cause of the diarrhea. It needs to be addressed quickly as kittens (as with human infants) can become dehydrated very quickly which makes it harder for them to bounce back from otherwise minor medical issues.
Q...Why can't I declaw the kitty I adopted?
A...First of all, it is prohibited in the contract you signed. Secondly, 90% of cats turned into shelters for urinating and deficating outside the litterbox are front declawed. The procedure is not a manicure it is an amputation at the first joint of kitty's "toe". Cats have scent glands on the pads of their feet (thus "kneading", "pawing", "scratching" at furniture, on you and other animals) which they use to deposit familiar smells and mark territory. Regular nail trimming, scratching posts and in some cases SOFT PAWS (kitty nail tips) are all that are needed to prevent unnecessary scratching. Please refer to http://www.declawing.com... for additional information on the "inhumane" practice of declawing.
Q...What is felv/fiv?
A...Felv (Feline Leukemia) and Fiv (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) are transmitted through contact with other cats. They are both very serious and can drastically affect the health of your kitty. ALL cats/kittens are tested for felv/fiv before adoption. However, since recent exposure may not show, we encourage you to have another test done at your vet in 3 months.
Q...What is Panleukopenia (a.k.a. "kitty distemper")?
A...Panleukopenia is a potentially fatal feline disorder (caused by the parvo virus). The distemper (parvo, fvrcp) vaccine guards against the virus and it is crucial to complete the series to ensure your kitty is inoculated fully. While at Last Chance your kitty received at least one vaccination in the series. Symptoms can include lethargy (lack of energy), diarrhea, vomiting, high temperature, dehydration and anorexia. The virus is especially hard on the very young and the very old and has a very high mortality rate. Although all kitties available for adoption appear healthy, as with any cat there is a chance they have been exposed to a variety of viruses. Because the virus is particularly common in shelters it is very important your kitty be seen by a vet within 3 days of adoption and monitored closely at home to insure their health is progressing the way it should.
Q...What is F.I.P?
A...Feline Infectious Peritonitis (F.I.P) is caused by the corona virus. As with Panleukopenia, animals in shelters are at a heightened risk of exposure. F.I.P presents in two forms: wet or dry. The wet version is easily diagnosed without extensive diagnostics because of the presence of a distended (swollen) fluid filled abdomen, anorexia, vomiting, lethargy (lack of energy), and dehydration. There is no preliminary test or proven vaccine available therefore, regular vet visits and close monitoring of any changes in your kitties health/behavior are required.
Q...What is deworming?
A...All animals are at risk for intestinal parasites (worms). There are variety of "worms" a kitty could be exposed to. Your kitty has been dewormed at least once with a broad spectrum dewormer called "strongid". However since deworming is not always a one time event you should have a fecal float (to check for resistant or residual parasites) and follow up treatment (if necessary) done at your first vet visit. Intestinal parasites can be as detrimental to your kitty's health as any virus or disease. If left unattended it can result in serious illness or even death.
Q...Has my kitty had a rabies vaccine?
A...All cats 13 weeks or older upon arrival to our rescue have had a rabies vaccine. Unless otherwise noted it is a one year vaccine. If they had a rabies vaccine prior to coming to our rescue, the certificate will accompany your file. We typically do not issue rabies tags. For boarding, grooming, etc... the certificate provided is required.
Behavioral/Socialization
Q...Will my kitty use the litter box?
A...Cats/kittens typically use a litter box instinctively. If your kitty doesn't seem to get the concept, or seems defiant about using the litter box there are several things to be considered. Primarily, you need to determine "Is it behavioral or medical?" Make sure the litter box is readily available. Sometimes kitty's don't feel like long hikes to use the potty (when you gotta go, you gotta go). If your kitty is eliminating outside the box make sure the box is cleaned on a very regular basis (at least daily). Most cats seem offended if you expect them to use a "dirty" litter box. (I don't blame them I've seen some restrooms on road trips that I'd rather not use too). If you have more than one cat or more than one level of your home it is recommended that you have at least one litter box per cat per floor. (2 cats + 2 floors=4 litter boxes) There are "special" litters and sprays you can purchase to encourage kitties to use the litter box. If after trying simple "at home" solutions the problem persists, you will need to schedule a vet visit. Improper elimination may be caused by urinary tract infections
Q...How do I introduce a new kitty to existing kitties?
That is a very good question. First of all we HIGHLY RECOMMEND a two week quarantine period when you first bring kitty home. This is for two reasons. One, a medical issue, these kitties are from shelters and even in the adoption centers they may be exposed to various kitty diseases that can be transferred to your existing kitty. Two, kitty psychology! A kitty that is just dumped into a home that the existing kitty or kitties have occupied for some time as the queen or king of the roost is going to be very territorial usually. You need to give the kitties some time to "get to know each other" in a non threatening manner. Put the new kitty in a separate room with it's own food water, litterbox and toys. Do not let them sniff or otherwise see each other. They will get to now each other from under the door. Instead of the kitties thinking "Who the heck is this intruder?" They should think "Hey Mom, there's another KITTY in there!!!" Then you can gradually let them interact AFTER, I repeat AFTER the two week quarantine is over.
To repeat, settle the new kitty in with their own food , water, litterbox and toys and maybe a safe place to hide. Let the new kitty get comfortable there for the two week period. Do not introduce the kitties during this time. It is O.K. for the kitties to sniff at the closed door. You may switch the bedding after the two weeks so the kitties can got used to the others scent.
If the hissing is intense (open mouth hissing) you can and should extend the introduction period. Make sure both kitties continue to eat, an adult cat may stop eating from stress...please check with your vet if they do not eat for a day or two. Do not let them go longer than a day with out checking with your vet!!
If there is no intense hissing, open the door an inch or so and let them meet thru the inch opening. Prop the door open only an inch and you should be able to judge from their reaction if you should proceed to the next step.
Most every cat will adjust to living in a multi cat household and enjoy it. Do not get discouraged!
It is not unusual for the kitties to take a few months to get along...although usually they will only take 2-3 weeks.
If you have any questions e mail your questions to lastchancehumane@comcast.net
